Jerry and I are feeling pretty tough, getting ready to hit the road. And as tough as this project may look I’ve got some super simple steps to make your very own scrub cap with no raw edges. Let’s get started. The scrub cap or the skully cap is way better than your standard bandana.
So what I wanted to do is make one that was ultra washable for those of you that are wearing these underneath your helmets and your hardhats at work and out on the road. So what we’ve done is I’ve created an entire pattern here which goes ahead and uses lots of different panels and makes it so there’s no raw edge. Now please jump into the description below we’ve got a link to a free printable where all of these pattern pieces are there and full size. You’re going to need a few different pieces of paper to print them on.
So let’s talk about that real quick before we go any further. You’ll see these green lines printed on the actual pattern pieces. Those lines are to be lined up on top of each and you might be able to see here where’s the other one. And then they’re going ahead and just tape them together to create the entire piece that was done.
And of course you’re going to only need a half of a yard for every Skully cap or scrub cap or whatever you like to call them. And I found this incredible flippers and fins fabric from my friends at Robert Kaufman. And I thought hey if I can wear one so can these cool little otters and so I thought it was the perfect fabric to match. But all of your theme prints work.
One last little thing I want to say about our pattern pieces and then we’re going to get started is this gold line here on just the top part that goes down the center of the cap. That has got a fold so you get it symmetrical. So I’m just going to unpin this now. And I need multiples of everything, twos of everything I should say except for four of the little band here.
As this opens up you’re going to see that I cut both of those on the fold. And this is where our sewing is going to start today. Just like this. Now what we want to go ahead and do is we want to first sew in our darts that help shape the back of the cap.
So this is the finished look. Here’s where we’re going. And it’s really simple. We’re going to go to the sewing machine.
And what I like to do is I like to take and just fold this on itself like yay. And then I’m going to start sewing. And I’m going to use a quarter inch seam allowance. So I’m actually starting back quite a ways.
We’re going to set a stitch knot there that doesn’t untie. Sew right to the edge. Set that stitch, lock it down. And I’m going to flip the other side over.
Just fold it nice and flat on itself. And this time I will start down at the tips and sew up to the triangle so I’m going to lock it in. And up and all the way through. And then just do a quick double check to see that your points line up about in the same spot right there at the top and then you’ve constructed the top panel but you have two of those to make.
So here you can see I’ve already made another one. So do both of those up or both of those dart stitches first. The next thing we need to do is we want to baste in our side pieces. So we have two of the side pieces as well.
Now this piece is going to follow the larger arc. This is the edge that fits into the cap here. This will be the bottom that runs along your ear. So I need to match this up here.
And I’m going to come along the top. And so what I’m doing is I’m coming over here and I’m going to baste this on with a less than quarter inch seam allowance because I’ll use a quarter inch seam allowance to catch multiple layers in a second. So I’m just using the edge or the width of my foot this time so a little narrower. And what I’m doing is I’m putting a little extra pressure on that center panel.
And I’m going to let the side eyeball shape just fall right into place as I go. It’s a real easy arc. We’re just basting this into place right now. And then as I get close to this edge I’ve got this one raw edge that I want to tend to for later.
So I’m going to stop about a quarter of an inch from the back. I’m going to actually cut my threads. And then what I want to do here is I want to take this edge that is here and it will be basically exposed after I finish the sewing. So I want to create the finished edge now.
And I want this tip to stay as small as possible so I’m going to fold it down. So I’m kind of holding the tip here making it wide kind of a fan shape fold. And bringing it back to where the quarter of an inch was. And then I’m going to come in here and I’m just going to topstitch real quick that outer edge to secure.
And that just makes it so I don’t have to monkey around with that later on and again gets rid of the raw edge on that piece. So there it is right there. And I’ve already gone ahead and taken the time as you can see to do this with both pieces. So here are those darts again.
Here are those folded over edges on both sides. And now that I have both pieces basted in. I’m going to kind of let them fold into the center. And I’m just going to take the other piece, center piece that has the darts already constructed.
And we’re going to go ahead and we’re just going to sew these. Now these are right sides together. I want to make sure I don’t hit those little eyes that are on the inside as we go. And so I’m going to first start this sewing, oops excuse me I forgot to point out.
I’m going to leave this narrow edge open for turning right sides out. So I want to start my sewing on the same corner so I can go all the way around. So I’m just lining myself up here. I’m going to leave that little square opening open at the top.
And now as I go around the curve I don’t have to worry about the eye piece. I’m just lining up those two top cap panels again so I’m back to quarter inch seam allowance. I’m going to lay this flat. I’m not worrying about the other side.
Oop sometimes I feel like I’m all thumbs. There we go. And we’re just going to let this come right on through there. Take a minute and reorganize if you need.
And I’m just trying to line up those back corners now too to maintain that proper arc. Keep those same pieces the same size there as I come around. Now as I come to that corner where I had double folded over that little back piece I’m going to make sure it doesn’t get caught but just at the very edge. And I’m going to sew off and then back on.
I’m going to pivot within the quarter of an inch. Now what I’m doing is the very narrow piece that is between the two top caps up to that dark but I am not catching that eye piece, that side eye shaped piece. Coming in here. It probably would have been a little easier without the edge guide but no problem.
I can just roll that, catch that top. I’m going to line up the back corner of the kite shape on the cap. And here we go. Now I’m just going to follow this whole kite shape all the way around.
But because I want to dog ear these corners I’m going to sew off. Oh I almost made myself a knot. Back on. Off.
Make sure everything is lined up down here before I go back on. Perfect. Ok just like that. Now we’re coming up the leg of that kite again.
Heading toward that same corner we just kind of handled on the other side. So I’m going to make sure that that eye shaped piece is really tucked in. I’m looking for that little flat, short edge. To that quarter of an inch mark, pivot.
Come out here to that corner. Sew off the edge. Lock it down, tuck in that eye. And we’re going to do the final arc shape here on that quarter inch seam allowance.
So I’m going to take a moment and make sure these tips stay nice. Fold this over like this and just come on through. Take nice gentle little strokes around that curve. Make sure you get it all just the way you like.
Ok almost there. And we’ve got that. Ok so before we’re ready to turn right sides out let’s just take a moment and dog ear some of our corners so I want to grab my rotary cutter. And I’m just going to take off that corner of the wing, the three points around the kite and that other corner over there.
Ok. Then we’re just going to reach our hand in and we’re going to pull this out. And we have now finished the tops and caught the sides. And all we have to do is build our strap or our band that goes around the front.
Now while I”m in here I’m using my fingers to kind of poke at those corners really nice. Just like that. There we go. Coming around there.
Now you can see there was that raw edge that was finished and where it got captured in there in that corner. Makes some fun kind of little wings on the back. And then that again as well there. Perfect.
Ok. So now this is all basically ready to go for our strap. Now to create the strap all we’re going to need to do is we have these two band pieces so we have an inside and outside basically. And then with those little pieces we had four of these.
So make sure you find the way that the arc is lining up correctly. It’s got a nice arc to it that way. And then match up your pieces. I like to make sure I have all four correct and accounted for before I get started.
There that’s correct. And now we’re just going to sew these short ends like this. A quarter inch seam allowance on both sides. I like to do them both before I go over to the iron.
Right sides together. Ok now let’s take a second, heat up that iron. And we need that for a little later. We’re going to need this here in a second.
I’ve already made one of those other straps for us. Here it is. Now I have both of them ready to rock and roll. And that will be the last of our phases here.
Ok I’m just going to press. I like to press into the kind of little skinnier part as I go like this. Now what’s going to happen is we’re going to take the cap itself. And where the little skinny parts came onto the long part of the cap that is actually going to start our seam right at that fold over in the back corner and go all the way around.
So the first thing I want to do and I’m going to do them all at the same time this time, is I’m going to come in here and I’m going to line up right sides together, make sure that my front strap is organized like this. It’s the arc portion that goes along the cap. Ok so this is going to need to get sandwiched in here like this, upside down like that. So I just kind of eyeball it.
So that means I’m going to walk myself down, walk myself down until I have that seam that was folded and the two seams that match up those caps or the straps. And that’s where we’re going to start our sewing. Now we’re going to go all the way across the front end. So if you would like to start back here on this tip you’re welcome to but for good practice on your first one let’s start right here.
After you get a little more proficient you can do it the other way. Ok now what I want to do is I want to drop a seam. And then I’m going to take a second, excuse me drop a stitch. Then I’m going to take a second to make sure I’m totally organized.
So there’s my stitches. Now I’m looking right sides up. Cap right sides down. Other strap right sides down.
I’ve got all of my arcs together and I’m just going to go ahead and just follow that along with a nice easy quarter of an inch. Taking a second every now and again just to eyeball. If you wanted to pin the center of your cap to the center of your tie strap you are more than welcome to. I find that this is pretty basic construction garment sewing so it doesn’t have to be absolutely perfect.
These are just some easy little tips. Right through here I have now captured that raw edges that allowed us to go to the center top so we never had any topstitching to do to that. That’s all been sealed now. Coming along here.
Ok, and then what happens is I’m coming through. And I didn’t quite get my arc just perfect. So my next seam didn’t line up exactly right in there but I’m just going to keep on sewing it into the cap. No big deal.
The tie is still going to work perfectly. And then what I’m going to do is I’m going to go through down here to these bottom corners of the tie. So here it goes. Stepping off.
Right back through because we will dog ear those corners later too. Ok now what’s going to happen is I’m starting to sew back into the area where I was which means all of this stuff could become a problem. So I’m just going to slow it down and I’m just going to go down to go to the little seam that was created where the short ends came on to the big end of the strap first. We’re just going to get that portion done.
Just matching up my edges of my fabric just right through there so nice and easy. Now the body of the fabric on the inside is going to want to start twisting and doing some weird stuff. Let it do that just worried about the outside, this quarter of an inch. That’s all you’re looking at.
And as this comes around now I’m starting to roll and tuck, kind of like some of those crazy little hoods that fit in the back of our winter coats. I’m just going to tuck that in. Look at that. And I’m going to go as far as I possibly can this way because whatever I don’t do this way I’m going to have to do with topstitching later.
I’m just going to keep on tucking and twisting. And then after a certain point I start to get a little too tight. I’m going to do a couple of stitches to lock it in place backwards. Cutting my threads and we’re going to come back around and we’re going to do the other side here.
So let me find those pieces. Sometimes I’ll actually unpack it a little bit, make sure I have everything still right sides together as to be. So what I want to do now is I’m going to pick up where I started this seam. So I’m now back where the original seam started.
I’m going to come back out to finish out this tail of the tie. Ok and just like before I got a little extra there I’m not going to sweat it. Coming back around and again. And again now as I back on this leg where as I start to stitch, this is where the meat of the cap could be twisted in a little bit.
So what I want to do is work it away from that edge as much as possible. Get to that first union of the small tie ins. There you go. And now we’re just going to manipulate and stitch as far as we can.
Poking all of the meat of the cap into the tie. We just have a few more seconds to go and I’ll show you the next step here. We are almost there everybody. You’ve done a great job today.
And I’m about as far as I can get it at this point so I’m going to go ahead and backstitch again. And we’re going to go ahead and cut those threads. And it’s going to look a bit like that. And if you want you could call that done.
Just kidding. It doesn’t look nearly that bad. Watch this. We start to pull at these as they come back around.
Ok now that we’ve got these back ties turned out, it’s time to press them. And as I’m getting ready to press the ties I also want to take a time and try to kind of turn these edges underneath. So I’m going to spend a moment with my fingers here first. Just kind of gathering this edge because this is where we’re going to do our topstitching.
Hopefully you can see the blue on the blue there. I’m kind of holding it nice like this. And then that way as I come in here with the iron itself I can iron the tie. And then right from the tie through that seam.
Sometimes I’ll take the tip of my iron a little bit on that arc. You know just set that quarter of an inch a little bit there. Oh my goodness. I’m fogging up my glasses over here.
And then just press that edge nice. And we are ready to topstitch this thing here. So when I go to topstitch what I’d like to do is basically catch the band only. You can topstitch all of it if you’d like.
But what I want to do is I’m going to start down here on this far back corner. And when I topstitch I’m running the edge of the thread basically kind of right on the edge of the cap itself or the seams. So I’m starting way back here so that as I come through here I’ve got a nice approach. And pretty quick though I’m to get into this area right where my raw edges are.
So we’re just going to double check to make sure those raw edges stay nice and pressed together as we hoped. We’re just closing this cap up. So there’s no more raw edges as we go through here. Just double check the work on the back there on that raw edge to make sure it hasn’t come open or anything.
You should be just fine. Oh my goodness. And we have now sealed that completely closed but I am going to finish all the way through this seam. And what I like to do is I like to come back around here at the bottom.
And I’m going to swing this corner up and around. And we’re going to go all the way back through where the strap meets the cap for one last round of topstitching. Make sure you don’t have the other tie underneath or any of the cap underneath that you wouldn’t want to have that caught there. And at the moment I’m just going to get my edge guide out of the way because we’re topstitching and I’m not using it anyways.
So now at this point I could go up and around out the kite shape and back down. Or simply I’m going to go across the band. Around the corner. One last tie off.
And yes gentlemen and ladies you have just completed your very own custom skully cap with a fantastic theme fabric of your choice. That’s right I want to hear from you in the comments today what is the fabric you’re going to use for your very first skully cap right here at Man Sewing. Oh, hey are you still in here. I thought you would have been checking out some of those other great videos.
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